Tuesday 28th, more training at INFO Nepal headquarters. We also take the chance to make the credential that certifies my being the INFO Nepal coordinator for Spain, taraaa…
Later in the day we take a rickshaw and we visit Durbar Square, home of Kathmandu’s ‘living goddess’. The volunteer card saves us the 200 Rs entrance fee that tourists must pay. Kumari Chowk, or the cult of Kumari, probably goes back to the Middle Ages. Although she is supposed to be a Hindu goddess, she is chosen from the Buddhist Shakya clan of goldsmiths, according to a selection process during which elders interview hundreds of Shakya girls aged three to five, short listing those who exhibit 32 auspicious signs : eyelashes like a cow’s, neck like a conch shell, etc. Finalists are placed in a courtyard surrounded by freshly severed buffalo heads while men in demon masks dance around making scary noises. The girl who shows no fear and can identify belongings of previous Kumaris, becomes the next Kumari. The goddess ‘s spirit leaves her when she menstruates.
The bahal-style courtyard is decorated with exquisitely carved windows, pillars and doorways.
Entrance to the palace is through Hanuman Dhoka (Hanuman Gate), a brightly decorated doorway that’s named after the popular monkey god Hanuman, whose statue stands outside. The figure is veiled to render its gaze safe to mortals.
Durbar Square is undoubtedly the place to see and be seen, some locals call it ‘Demonstration Square’ due to the many political manifestations that are held here.
It is home to the ancient building Kasthamandap, which is believed gave Kathmandu its name.
